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You can be the fittest person on the plant, but unless you are already acclimatised to extreme altitudes faced on Aconcaqua then your fitness means absolutly nothing, infact it can have the oppostie desired effect. It can mean that you ignore the golden rules of climbing at altitude, ie climb high sleep low and only climb a max of 300 metres a day along with taking them all important rest days to allow your body time to acclimatise to the extreme barometric pressure you will endure at these extreme altitudes.
>>>Altitude Calculator here<<< DO NOT UNDER ESTIMATE THE ALTITUDE ON ACONCAQUA
What can you and I do to help give us as much chance of making it to high altitude.
Below are some of the Golden rules along with some others which seem to have a growing body of experianced climbers that are fans of.

Cimb High Sleep low
This one is pretty obvious, and most people know this one, climb approx 300mts a day then come down to a lower level for sleep. Then the next day climb back to your previous 300mts to sleep and possibly rest for a day to acclimatise. Then climb a further 300mts and come back down to sleep, then climb up the next day to that higher 300 mtrs to sleep and acclimatise. Repeat this process moving slowly up not rushing.

Hydration
Drink plenty of water and or isotronic fluids with electolytes in. It is absolutely vital to keep you body hydrated with approx 3 ltrs per day of fluids even if you do not feel thirsty. If your pee has no colour then as a general rule of thumb you are hydrated, the deeper the colour your pee is the more you need to drink. However this can be tricky if you are taking vitamin tablets as these do colour your pee. So just drink at least 3 ltrs whether you feel like it or not otherwise you will feel like someone is sticking red hot needles in your eyes and or have the worlds worst headache which will bring you too a sudden stop.

Medication you can take with you
The below are some that most people know about, but you should obviously take professional medical advice as well.
Diamox is the most widely used. It is not a magic tablet that cures and prevents AMS but it is the first thing most people will hear about when asking about what meds to take to prevent altitude sickness. I have taken it myself and I never suffered at all with the tingling fingers that some suffer with and I also never suffered from AMS. Obviously this doe not mean that I will be ok everytime I use diamox. Also because it makes you pee more you need to keep this in mind when you are drinking your 3 ltrs of fluids a day.
Asprin and Ibuprofen are effective at relieving altitude headaches below 14000ft but should be only be used if carefully. Asprin can also help to thin the blood and help the movement of blood hence help move oxygen around the body. Again what works for one person may not work for another and you need to take professional advice before relying on these.
The above are meds you can buy yourself before going abroad but Diamox is the most popular and effective

Gear List Page

Gear List for Aconcaqua

I have not been sponsored or given any clothing or kit for free and have bought all my kit myself so have no affiliation to any brand. In fact I buy just what I have used in the past and what I find works best for me.

There are a few basic rules for gear

1, Baselayer. I use Merino wool mainly as it keeps you warm, wicks well, drys quick and doesnt smell and always feels fresh. No zips on baselayers as they could potentially freeze to your skin.

2, Mid-Layers. Must have zips to allow ventilation to aid bodycore tempreture control. Have collers to protect neck. Hoods beneficial to protect head.

3, Jackets, Must must have hood to protect head and neck as this is a vital part of protecting your body core. It can also be used to roll jacket into if required to stuff back in pack.

4, Leg outer shell, the windproof waterproof outer shell must have a full length zip. This is absolutely vital to aid in getting them on very quickly over boots and crampons in harsh cold conditions.

5, Keep things you need to get hold of frequently in your outer pockets like energy snacks, camera, sunblock. If grabbing your food is tricky then you probably wont bother eating it and end up struggling with your energy level.

6, Keep your small items like electricals in waterproof stuff bags so they dont get wet and also so they dont fall down to the bottom of the bag making it awkward to find.

The gear I will be using for Aconcaqua

Baselayers

Rab MeCo 165 Baselayer pants


The MeCo 165 Pant is a base layer pant made from 165gsm MeCo fabric.New MeCo fabric is an intimate blend of 65% ethically sourced Australian Merino wool combined with 35% recycled polyester with Cocona® activated carbon technology.
Cocona® fabric is made using natural technology. Activated carbon is derived from discarded coconut shells and other natural micro porous particles. These particles are contaned within the fibre and can not wear out or wash off. Cocona® is extremely breathable and accelerates evaporation - making them ideal for use in baselayers.
Cocona® absors a wide range of odour molecules within the activated carbon and aids the natural anti bacteral properties of Merino wool. The major benefit of MeCo blended fabrics is the vastly reduced drying time for these fabrics, this makes them excellent for use as a year round base layer and also saves washing and drying time.
The MeCo 165 Pant is an ideal winter weight base layer pant for all cold weather activities.







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Rab Meco 250 Long Sleeve top baselayer

The MeCo 250 Long Sleeve Zip Tee is the latests and heaviest addition to the MeCo range. MeCo baselayers consist of 65% merino wool blended with 35% Cocona Polyester. This version (as the name suggests) uses a 250gsm fabric that offers more warmth than the lighter MeCo fabrics but still offers the same fast drying and anti odour properties.
The MeCo 250 can be worn as a winter weight base layer or we've found it also works really well as a light midlayer especially for multi day trips when the anti odour and quick drying properties really shine through.






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Rab Baseline Hoodie
Can be used as Baselayer or Mid Layer

The Rab Baseline Hoodie is a close fitting synthetic base layer made from Polartec Power Dry.
The Baseline is designed to wick sweat incredibly quickly. Ideal for high energy activities the Power Dry fabric has a double knit construction, on the inside of the fabric is a fast wicking yarn that draws moisture from your skin to the outer fabric. The outer fabric is very quick drying allowing for fast evaporation.
The Baseline hoodie is best worn as a next to skin baselayer where the fabric can work at it's best but also works as a great lightweight mid-layer.
Thumbloops and the long cut sleeves provide great coverage for athletic moves, the hood is close fitting and will fit nder a helmet, and a zipped chest pocket is suitable for essentials.





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Cold Avenger Mask
Prevent the Khumbu Cough

If you have ever had the dreaded Khumbu cough you will know exactly why I am taking this bit of kit. I had the Khumbu cough / Hack previously and I never want to endure it again if I can help it. Numerous high altitude expeditions/climbs have been abandoned due to people getting this. It is thought to stem from your lungs been irritated by the severe cold/dry air at altitude and reduces you to a coughing machine, coughing so violantly that people have actually broken ribs they cough so hard. I remember reading this before I went to Everest before and thinking hmm, I cant see that. I never actually broke a rib, but I certainly remember thinking to myself, now I see why some people break ribs when I had it at its most violent.
There was another make a few years back (pre 2013) called PSOLAR which did the self same thing,. However their website no longer works and messages to suppliers of PSOLAR have all gone unanswered.
However the Cold Avenger mask does the exact same and after emailing coldavenger manufacturers direct they confirmed that they supply thier masks to countless expeditions in cold high altitude regions.
The term for these masks if yo want to search for alternatives is: Heat Exchanger Masks. The idea is as you breathe out, the warm air you breathe out warms an element in the mouth piece of the mask just enough so that when you breath back in, this element gentally warms the cold air just enough to prevent the cold air from irritating your lungs and hence the cough known as the Khumbu Cough
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Hunersdorf Expedition Water Bottle with blue neoprene cover

This is the trusted water bottle for extreme cold environments. Preferred (and even required by some guides) by experienced cold weather climbers and explorers. The lid has large ribs on the outside so it is easy to open with mittens or gloves the cold Because of the slightly flexible PE material, and design of the lid, they don’t have the tendency to crack in the cold as others do.

These bottles also weigh less than many other expedition grade bottles. The bottles can handle warm liquids from melting snow to water
 

Training for Mount Aconcaqua

Training for Mount Aconcaqua
Leave for Aconcaqua Dec 14 - 2013,
Ready for summit attempt New Years Eve 2013.

PowerBreathe (Aug 2013)
I was very sceptical of this device when I was first recommended it, as there are a lot of devices out there that make all sorts of fantastic claims to aid your breathing at Altitude. This is one of them that now has a growing voice from well respected high altitude mountaineers, along with having been used by numerous Everest expedition climbers and also has nearly a full page dedicated to it in the fantastic book "Mountaineering Training and preperation" a book which I can most certainly highly recommend for your training.
This small device restricts your breathing and you simply suck on a mouthpiece with deep breaths in and out 30 times, twice a day and no more. It is designed to build that all important diaphragm muscle in your lungs and train you to breathe correctly and easier.
I was very sceptical at first, and if Im honest Im probably still not 100% totally convinced whether it is this or a mixture of all the other training that Im doing along with this PowerBreathe that has improved my breathing.
But there is absolutely no doubt that I have definately moved up the scale of intensity on this device from when I first bought it. I was initially on a setting of 2 with 1 been the lowest easiest, now after 3 weeks I am on number 5 and think that number 2 is so easy it wouldnt be worth bothering with. Also I have one of them some what scary looking Elevation Training Masks to make life hard when Im in the gym or out in snowdonia training, "a video of me using it is at the bottom of the page". I never really noticed any significant improvement using the Elevation Mask previously, but I must admit since using the PowerBreathe I have noticed definate undeniable improvements with not only the Elevation Mask, but also my running. I seem to be able to take bigger longer deeper breaths and hence Im not out of breath so easily when training outdoors or indoors.
It just seems such a simple device to use that it is hard to believe that it can be this alone that is making these huge improvements in my breathing, but without a doubt I have only noticed these improvements since using the PowerBreathe.

Choosing a personnel Trainer (Aug 2013)
I have now decided which Personnel Trainer
I will use for this climb up Aconcaqua Mike Buss of Swindon.

Despite me for years saying I would never ever have the need for a PTI as I’m always more than motivated to keep myself fit and easily manage to go out training on my own each and every week, I only ever work on my Cardio, my Legs and my Endurance. I never ever bother with body core or upper body. I realise that for something like climbing Aconcaqua where I will be carrying heavy load’s up at extremely high Altitude 22,840ft - 6,962m for between 6 - 12 hours a day I will need to work on these key areas and will have to invest in the services of a personnel trainer. I have spent the last month contacting and researching personnel trainers in the area that I live Wiltshire, trying to find one that fits the criteria. It wasn’t as easy as you might think ie just picking any personnel trainer. Yes there are lots of them who are more than qualified and experienced. However I ideally need someone who has a very good understanding and knowledge of the rigours that the human body has to endure at extremely high altitudes (60% less oxygen on the summit compared to sea level) where the altitude and extreme cold (between minus 30 and minus 40) makes something as simplistic as taking your boot off and changing a sock or tending to a blister extremely difficult. Along with one feature which Aconcaqua is infamous for, horrendously high winds which regularly reach over 100mph making the temperature with wind chill plummet.

I have now chosen to work with Mike Buss from Swindon who holds numerous world records for endurance challenges raising money for the British Forces Charity Help For Heroes, he has also raced in the 6633 Artic Ultra, was also a British Army PTI and Artic Survival Instructor along with been a member of the PTI team that trained the British Army Expedition on a Mount Everest Challenge.This will mean an initial training session with Mike to put me through my paces to establish a base point from which to work from and improving my definite weaknesses ie Body Core and Upper Body along with building on my strengths. It will mean sticking to a training plan he sets out for me whether that be when I am out on my own training on the Wiltshire downs (hills) or back in his gym that he owns in Swindon, along with a once weekly 1 on 1 session for the next 21 weeks. We will also work on my nutrition as I at present just eat what I want when I want as I know I easily burn it off when I go off training on my own.

July 2013
About me
It should be noted that I am no professional climber or personel trainer, I do however love training and pushing my body as hard as I can but prefer to train outside in the open air whether it is snowing/raining or hot and sunny. I can usually be found out running and Mountain Biking near to where I live which is just outside the Cotswold's. I am at least once a month up in either the Brecon Beacons or Snowdonia scrambling/hiking at pace up some peak or running up Pen Y Fan or Mount Snowdon.

I do still use the gym but up until last week I have not felt the need to use a personnel trainer but I am now starting to re-think this, as I know I never bother with my body core or upper body. I do have all good intentions of working these areas all of which are absolutely super critical for anything such as Aconcaqua. However as soon as I get into the gym and I see the cardio equiptment I forget about the body core and upper body and just get stuck into pushing myself as hard as I can on the usual cardio equiptment ie rowers/treadmill/stair climbers/cross trainers/bikes/steppers etc along with working my legs squats lunges, and absolutely love it when I walk into the changing rooms dripping with sweat from a cracking work out having completely ignored my core. 
So with Aconcaqua looming I feel its vital that I employ the services of not only a professional personnel trainer, but one who specialises in either endurance sports ie Triathlon and or has experiance of going to and or training clients who have been to extremely high altitudes.
Not as easy a task as you may think, as even when you find one who has the technical skills, they also need to be able to feel that they too can work with you as well as you work with them. Along with them been able to motivate you in your training enough so as to push you that extra length when your whole body is telling you to stop "Ive gone to far I feel dizzy" and you are about to be sick.
I have now contacted a number of Personnel Trainers in the area who I feel could be the ones that have the experiance and knowledge I am looking for. I will then hopefully be able to arrange a session with each of them to find one that I feel can push me that extra mile and motivate me to work on the areas that I keep negleting in favour of doing what I enjoy most ie cardio workouts.

A recent video of me out in Snowdonia July 27 training for Aconcaqua.
Carrying a backpack full of water which weighed in at 40lb, I used water so as to be able to dump it at the summit to save my knees on the way back down.


I also had a 1lb ankle weight on each ankle along with the Altitude training mask. The training mask despite the manufacturers claims cannot replicate altitude. What it does do though is really give your diaphragm a good work out and helps to make life a whole lot harder for me rather than just carrying the weight upto the top (I also use the PowerBreathe system which is very similar).
The peak I chose was Elidir Fawr in Snowdonia which is one of the Welsh3000 peaks. I chose this one because it is the hardest and steepest of all the 3000ft peaks in snowdonia. It goes up to 3000ft in a little under 2 miles starting out at approx 300ft above sea level. It is a peak that is not only steep but is just one of them horrible horrible peaks that just seems to go on and on and on with not one section that is flat its just one horrible hard mental slog.
It has large boggy grassy areas that sap your energy along with slippy scree areas. All designed to push me and try and give me a hard work out. Once at the summit in 1 hour and 40 mins I simply dumped the water, went back down to the bottom and filled the bags up with water and repeated the process.